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This article assumes that the radio, gyro, ESC and servos have been installed
as per manufacturer instructions. Due to the wide variety of components
that could be installed I won't try to cover their installation here. Although
individual articles on such items may be found in other sections of the
site, for example setup instructions for a Castle Creations Speed Controller.
Items you will need : Tachometer, Pitch Gauge and good knowledge of how
you ESC, Gyro and Transmitter work.
Setting up the X400 is not as complicated as you might imagine and providing
the instructions for the mechanical setup have been followed precisely
the radio setup is actually quite straight forward. The ARK manual directs
you to make sure that at the middle of the collective pitch movement all
of the mixer arms and washout arms are horizontal. This is shown on page
19 of the manual and reproduced in miniature here : |
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This picture doesn't go as far as also showing that the washout arms (above
the swashplate) and the mixer arms (above the washout arms) should also
ALL be horizontal with the collective pitch at middle of it's movement
and the swashplate horizontal.
Once you have this mechanically setup such that with your transmitter throttle
at mid stick you can get this horizontal alignment (and the servo should
be horizontal as well as shown) you should be in a position to check your
pitch range. If you have followed the link sizes in the instructions you
should be getting an even amount of positive to negative throw on the collective.
This may not be the -10 to +10 but it should at least be even. Where you
place the collective pitch control lever on the servo will determine the
limits of the throw you achieve. Pictured below is my collective pitch
servo and where I have positioned the control horn. |
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As can be seen the control arm is in the furthest hole from the center
of the servo in order to get +/- 10 degrees of collective pitch. If you
are a beginner you definitely won't want this amount of throw, I'll come
back to this later on.
The X400 is much more stable than it's T-Rex cousin, so the cyclic setup
is somewhat different. The T-Rex pretty much requires using the inner most
holes on the cyclic servo horns and then some exponential or dual rates
may be required to further calm down the cyclic response. The X400 is fairly
docile if using the inner most hole on the servo but it is perfectly OK
to use holes further out from the servo center to get the control response
you want. No exponential is required due to the extra stability created
by the weighted paddles. To give myself some time to get used to the way
the X400 handles I currently use the inner most holes on my servos but
will change this as I want more response from the controls. Some pictures
to illustrate : |
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OK, so on to the tail servo and the tail linkages and with tail wag firmly
in mind how do we get this bit set up right?
Firstly the build thread covers how to get the tail pitch slider moving
freely, this is the first job, if the tail pitch slider doesn't move freely
then you need to get it sorted or all the rest of the information here
will be for nothing. Once the tail pitch slider is free, connect up the
tail pushrod to the conrol horn at the tail end of the boom. Now manually
slide the control rod and make sure it is still nice and free. If not then
you need to loosen up the tail control rod ball link using the squeeze
with pliers method. Once this is free then you can finally connect the
tail control rod to the tail servo. The control rod should be between 10mm
and 20mm from the servo center to get the required throws for good tail
authority and gyro control. The rest of the tail pushrod setup will be
dependent on what gyro you are using and so I cannot cover it here other
than to say to follow the instructions with your gyro. Picture of my tail
servo below : |
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OK, so we now have collective and cyclic throws setup correctly and the
tail and gyro (according to it's instructions) configured correctly. There
should be no servo binding at extreme stick movements and if there is it
should be removed by adjustment of servo end points on the transmitter.
This just leaves one item for discussion, which is throttle and pitch curves.
Experts will have no difficulty with this so I won't go into the detail
of setting up 3D throttle and pitch curves. For beginners or those new
to electric heli's the following is some guidance on correct throttle and
pitch setup.
Beginners should adjust the pitch range in the transmitter such that you
have -2 degrees of pitch at low stick and +10 at high stick. This helps
reduce boom strikes from chopping the throttle when things get a bit out
of shape in the hover. Throttle should be set with a tachometer such that
the X400 has around 2400 RPM in the hover and that throttle increases beyond
the hover to try to miantain that headspeed as more load is introduced.
A typical throttle pitch curve may look something like this .... |
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| If you move the
throttle/pitch stick to... |
...the throttle
should be set to.... |
...and the pitch
should be set to... |
| its highest
position |
full power |
around +10 degrees |
| three quarters of
the way up |
85% power |
around 8 degrees* |
| the centre position |
65% power |
around +6½ degrees |
| a quarter of the
way up |
30% power |
around 4 degrees* |
| Its lowest position |
off |
-2 degrees |
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OK, that's the basics of setup without getting into the detail for specific
gyros or speed controls. I hope to get a full setup article done in future
with far more information than produced here but for the moment I hope
this helps at least get the X400 airborne. |
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